New planting produces seedlings, which are given care and attention. The new coffee crops are watered and managed to ensure these seedlings mature into healthy plants. Whether new plants are planted in planned garden plots or farmed among wild plants depends on the regional variety and traditions. In all cases, the management of the crop is shared by local farmers. The small green berries emerge 8 or 9 months after the flower first appears. A typical coffee plant is capable of producing mature coffee berries after 2 to 4 years.
In Ethiopia, there are three basic production systems in use for growing coffee. Wild grown coffee is known as Forest Coffee and is harvested by the local people. Garden Coffee is produced in small garden plots. These plants are often grown in shared gardens, alongside other crops. The third and largest of the production systems is Plantation Coffee. These large estates are capable of producing tonnes of coffee but only represent a small part of Ethiopian coffee. Most coffee is grown and produced by households using the Garden Coffee system.
In the first few years the tree is very productive and produces many berries. Coffee plants can become trees very quickly. For this reason, they require regular attention and maintenance. As the trees grow more and more branches, nutrients in the soil are used up to produce a bigger and bigger tree. Pruning involves removing parts of the top of the tree and removing limbs from the lower portion and around the tips of its branches. This directs nutrients back to the production of berries, creating a more robust harvest. Managing the height and size of the plants also makes picking easier.
Traditional farmers hand pick the ripe berries from the bush. Care is given to select only the most ripe and ready berries. Picking is sometimes rotated between trees, over a 10-day period, and the task is divided among several individuals. Such careful attention guarantees that only the very best and ripest berries are selected. Berries may be gathered in baskets or cropped onto a cloth.
After picking, the berries are gathered by wrapping them in a traditional cloth. Wrapping hand selected berries helps to measure and organize the harvest, as well as protect against unwanted debris and loss of the harvested fruit. The wrapped coffee berries can easily be carried to the drying tables.
Traditional coffee farmers wash and then dry the beans by spreading them out on flat pans in the sun. However, more recently, farmers are switching to wet processing, which involves drying the beans, giving them a forceful washing with water. This process releases more delicate notes of flavors for which Ethiopian ‘Arabic’ coffee has become famous.
Washed and dried beans are bagged for transport to sorting and hulling. This process helps to manage proper volume of product and organize the labor involved.
Freshly processed, dried and bagged beans are next put through a process of hulling. This process removes any remaining layer of material from the original berry surrounding the inner bean. Traditional hulling was done using a large stone. The beans are spread onto a cloth and a girl stood upon a large stone, moving her feet in a special “dance” which gently moved the stone up and down across the beans, shucking away any remaining outer hulls without crushing or destroying the dried beans. Other methods include tossing the beans up and catching them again in a special basket or pan designed to strip away the hull. The momentum of circulating the beans into the air and across the pan removed the outer material.
Finally, the hulled and processed beans are spread out onto large sorting tables, or onto special clothes. Sorters visually remove any material or beans which are not of the specifications and caliber desired for the batch.
Once the harvested beans have been dried, cleaned, hulled, and sorted, they are packaged for transport to market vendors in far-away cities. This process begins with moving the product to specific distribution sites closest to the processing facilities.
The Ethiopian Coffee Ceremony is a true symbol of respect and friendship. The ceremony begins with a special preparation of the room. Florals and fresh grasses are placed on the floor to give the room a fresh and fragrant atmosphere. The hostess a fills the “jebena” (a traditional clay pot) with water and places it over hot coals. She then takes a handful of raw green coffee beans and rinses them clean. She places them in a pan and roasts them over a flame. The beans pop and sizzle, turning black and glistening with the oil that has been released by the heat. A pleasant aroma fills the air. She then places the roasted beans in a “makecha” bowl and grinds them coarsely with a “zenezena” stick.
Next, the freshly ground coffee is transferred to the jebena. She places the jebena filled with water and ground coffee over the fire to boil. When ready, she pours a fine stream of coffee into small cups and serves them to the guests. Everyone usually drinks three servings. It is also a tradition to serve popped corn add burn incense during the ceremony.